From Dominical to Ojochal there is a region with a unique character that sets it apart from anywhere else in the country. Hotel and restaurant owners and tour operators have rolled up their sleeves and are working to let people know about the singleness that this southern Pacific region, the newly named Costa Ballena, offers.
An overarching calm and unexploited natural beauty are what make Costa Ballena so rich. Because communication with the region has only recently become acceptable, large tracts of forests still run up to ecologically sound beaches. At the same time, towns like Dominical, Uvita, Bahía and Ojochal have developed local networks of volunteers and quality services that offer just enough infrastructure for tourists to discover the region’s warm local character.
The area offers enough eco and adventure tours to fill up your entire vacation calendar. At the same time, you can’t fully understand Costa Ballena without visiting the beaches, where you’ll find great places to surf and snorkel. And, without a doubt, Ballena National Marine Park is a must-see.
::Dominical
Dominical is the access point by land for the rest of Costa Ballena. Its infrastructure stretches along a long dirt road that ends at the beach, which is famous for its great surfing. At nearby beaches such as Dominicalito, Escaleras and Hermosa you’ll also find favorable conditions for this sport or for simply having a nice day. As at any beach, ask about the swimming conditions and possible rip currents before taking your first dip.
::Ballena National Marine Park
There is a tombolo at Punta Uvita that stretches a kilometer out to sea and, from the air, looks like a whale’s tail (hence the name: Ballena means “whale” in Spanish). In several of the park’s islands, the ocean has carved caves that, when the waves are strong, shoot streams of water skyward like blowholes. These symbols seem like magical signs that let visitors know about the park’s most spectacular wealth, the arrival of cetaceans, chiefly humpback, pilot and killer whales, which happens during July to the end of October and again from the end of November to April. The park’s other treasures include observing the cliffs of Ventanas Beach, the three species of dolphins that live in the waters (common, bottle-nose and Pacific spotted) and the islands of Ballena and Tres Gemelas, which are home to pelicans, bobo birds, frigate birds and fishing hawks.
The park measures 5,375 hectares of sea and 115 hectares of land that can be accessed from the communities of Uvita, Bahía or Piñuelas. There are several tour operators who will show you the secrets of this national marine park. Entrance costs 1,000 colones for residents and $6 for foreigners.
::Nauyaca Waterfalls
Visitors travel six kilometers on horseback through a transition forest known as Líbano. The landscape winds along a red clay path, surrounded by mountains to a small valley where the Barucito River flows. During the last stretch you’ll hear a strong rumble. You won’t see anything until the very end, but hidden there is a 40-meter waterfall that makes two majestic leaps. Don Lulo offers this trip, and you’ll experience his hospitality first-hand as you’ll eat in his house. The beginning of the tour lies ten kilometers from Dominical towards Perez Zeledón.
::Nature Reserves
Three kilometers from Dominical, (along the banks of the Barú River, is the Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge encompasses more than 330 hectares of primary and secondary forest and a wide range of tours. Among these the Flight of the Toucan stands out. This tour mixes the adventure of a canopy tour with ecology. The Tree Climb is also interesting, allowing you to scale a 35-meter rainforest tree. For those who seek a lesser grade of adrenaline, there are more than seven kilometers of trails you can hike with a naturalist guide. Along the way you’ll see primary rainforest, wetlands, grasslands and mangroves. There is also a night tour along these paths. It’s worth noting that more than 350 species of birds have been identified on the reserve.
Other local farms dedicated to the conservation and reforestation of wildlife are La Cusinga and Oro Verde. Near the village of Uvita, La Cusinga offers an interesting tour of giant trees where you’ll see butternut, kapok and olivewood trees that are over 40 meters high and were born centuries back. From these two options you’ll enjoy incredible views of Ballena National Marine Park.
::Ojochal and Mangroves
From this town, located on the southern corner of Costa Ballena, you can take a boat through the largest system of mangroves in Central America. Bird lovers will especially enjoy this tour as there are a huge amount of birds here. The best times to go are early in the morning and at dusk.
:: How to get there
Buses depart San José for San Isidro del General daily from the Musoc terminal, from 5:30 until 17:30. The trip takes around three hours. In order to make the connection to Dominical you’ll have to get to San Isidro before 13:30. From San José there are also buses that run first to Quepos and then to Dominical and Uvita. They leave from the La Coca Cola terminal at 5:30 and 17:30; or you can take the direct bus to Quepos, the last of which leaves at 19:00.
If you’re going by car, take the Pan-American Highway south to San Isidro del General and then the road to Dominical. You can also go from Quepos on the Costanera Sur, but this road is in poor condition and can only be driven with a all-wheel-drive vehicle with high clearance.
By plane you can comfortably fly to Palmar Sur, 30 minutes from Costa Ballena. Sansa (www.flysansa.com), and Nature Air (www.natureair.com) have daily flights. For charters, contact Paradise Air (www.flywithparadise.com).
::Contact Board Members